AMCARFORUM.NO

Obviesly you put lots of hours in to car normal people would call junk Great work so far and keep us updated as the project goes on

And happy new year in poland also.

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Lazy rides brumunddal

Sorry My English is worse than Adam's Norwegian but i will try to do it in English.

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1965/2004 Mustang mach1
1970 Plymouth GTX 440 6 Pack
1970 plymouth GTX 440
1982 Opel manta 2.0i 16v
2013 citroen berlingo
2008 peugeot 408 Gass/bensin
VW sharan 2003 1.8 Turbo. 190 hk. 300Nm Brukt bilen fra helvete.

I always enjoy project threads. Thanks for posting.

Regarding epoxy primer. Is there a better alternative? Compared to other primers I think it's pretty darn good. I have a car thats has sat in epoxy primer for too many years, and the only spots with surface rust, is where the rust was not properly dealt with to begin with. The environment the car has been stored in has been less than ideal too. I'm impressed. Similar products are used on boats to avoid osmosis, so i thought it was waterproof.

1. about writting in Norwegian or English... there is not a problem for me if some body writte in Norwegian. Google translator helps a lot, and it is easy to read. So not a problem, and do not worry guys.... writte like You want... I will have to go to Norwegian language school soon I really like to work for You, and fall in love in Your country. When I was first time with my wife last year (spring) in Norway, the good memories still are in our minds. You have so peacefull country, all goes without hurry, traffics only at 4p.m. when people goes home from work.... even animals seems to be more quiet

2. about epoxy ... From my experience there is no other way than epoxy primer. It is the best way. You have right that usually nothing happen - I just writted that it can happen, and that in product chart it is this written that no warranty longer that fiew months... It was just a thought.... Around 4 years ago I was making some experiments with primers, paint the same metal with different kinds of primer, then use salt water, and see what is the best. The winner was: water primer, witch one have kind of acids in it. The acids make the reaction with metal and safe it.... On fiew cars, I have used it, paint water primer, then cover with epoxy (only fiew product can be used in this combination - so I trust product chart and would do the best possible protection) but it was wrong. It is werry hard to cover water primer with epoxy, or any other paint. There is still some reaction between layers (water primer/epoxy) and after paint connection betwen layers is not good enough. It was happen that first car paintd like this have some crash fiew months after paint, and in hitted areas You was able to take paint out from the car like glue-tape (scotch) or something like this.... So I finish with water primer experiments and I am using only epoxy. This spring I would like to start experiments with hot zinc spraying - like on big boats, bridges, or others industries. It is expensive way, but sound great, aspecially for Norwegian cars. I have piece of metal, hot zinc sprayed last summer , and use on it salt water, sun, water, all days have it outside, was sanding some areas a little, and it is still not rusted... but it is a thouht for another car, I will post other topic when have more info. Now we have to back in to 68 Fastback

Here is some tining pictures, step by step... when You do tining, it is possible to play with it, to get ideal structure, without use any putty later, but I prefer to leave it as is, and use a little fiberglass putty on it by painter.

nice

Tinn job is hard work, and much harder than normal filling.
the workshop that I worked for we had one of those old men, he only used the tin, while the others enjoyed the filler.
there is one thing that I'm a little afraid when you do not sand the surface smooth after tinning.
there can be air and acid trapt in the growe.


we have a lot of good body worker on Amcarforum, is it true what my old mentor said that the tin had to be blank after the job was done, due to the risk of acid and air ? or is this something he just said, (look extra nice)

litle to read, this is not answer. only litle to read http://www.willhoitautorestoration.com/ ... yester.php

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1965/2004 Mustang mach1
1970 Plymouth GTX 440 6 Pack
1970 plymouth GTX 440
1982 Opel manta 2.0i 16v
2013 citroen berlingo
2008 peugeot 408 Gass/bensin
VW sharan 2003 1.8 Turbo. 190 hk. 300Nm Brukt bilen fra helvete.

Yes, it is hard job, but the worst is that taking lot of time. There for sure is not any air or acid inside. After first primer layer of tin I am cleaning all acids, and think 99,9% is cleaned. Then the final tin is putted. This hole is factory soo deep (around 5mm) that over a metal we have 4-5mm of tin. I can sand it a little bit more, to get ideal flat (smooth) suface, but then will have to use more filler on it. On a final picture there are visible some groves, but the groves are around 0,5mm or something. There are no holes to a metal or tin cracks. I can play with it, lost another hour and get ideal structure... but I am mixing 2 ways in a places like this. Simple tin, and thin layer of new kind putty on it.
If on a places like this we will use only new putty (filler) there is werry high risk that putty "sit down" after some time or crack (aspecially on a places when we will have 5mm). So in this case finally here will be 4mm of tin, strong holding all on place and 0,5 mm of putty (filler). I am thinking that when we will connect old school with new one, and take the best from both will be the best for this project.

Yes these are the 0.5 mm grower I was a little afraid, that's where my mentor said it could collect air and acid, do not know if the acid comes from the flux or the tin. Maybe he is wrong, and he told me this only for trying to get the finnish result 100% nice. I was only 20 years old and he was old and wise you know its hard to be a apprentice

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1965/2004 Mustang mach1
1970 Plymouth GTX 440 6 Pack
1970 plymouth GTX 440
1982 Opel manta 2.0i 16v
2013 citroen berlingo
2008 peugeot 408 Gass/bensin
VW sharan 2003 1.8 Turbo. 190 hk. 300Nm Brukt bilen fra helvete.

I was not able to sleep tonight... still thinking that You are not happy with this work so here is a result when I add 2 hours more to this work... still not perfect, but more close...

Lol. i have to stop making coment on pictures, i will not have angry magda calling meg " Furky can not sleep, he has become a Amcarforum addict"

I know Bead-lock know a lott of body work i hope He can make a notis on this tin work. if my mentor is wrong, its good for all to know. spesial me, then i can go home and "kill him"

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1965/2004 Mustang mach1
1970 Plymouth GTX 440 6 Pack
1970 plymouth GTX 440
1982 Opel manta 2.0i 16v
2013 citroen berlingo
2008 peugeot 408 Gass/bensin
VW sharan 2003 1.8 Turbo. 190 hk. 300Nm Brukt bilen fra helvete.

Adam, I thought you allready was an amcar addict?

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HUSK å resirkulere plast! Visste du at 2kg plast sparer 4kg olje, som kan rafineres til 1l bensin til å fôre lekene mine.

1965 Plymouth Barracuda 4,5
1987 Jeep Cherokee 4,0
Garasjen deres

Adam:

1. What do you do with areas that you can't see? I mean inside framerails and (sub)frames, and rockers?

2. Do you inspect those areas with for example a inspectioncamera so see if there are rust inside?

3. Is it much more expensive for the customer if he want you to use tin instead of filler? I mean like the great job you showed us in the last pictures.

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69 Chevy Camaro X11, LS1 6-speed (project Stealth)

69 Chevy Camaro X44, LT1 (ex)
68 Plymouth Valiant, 383 Magnum(ex)
74 Ford Maverick, 302 (ex)
88 Chevy Astro (ex)

Non
Athletic
Sport
Created
Around
Rednecks

Yes for sure I have an amcar addict from years , but now I am addicted from amcarforum.no It is better than update my site http://www.fajnefurki.pl

At this Mustang there are almost no space, where I do not take a look I have open rear frame rails, rockers (at the back it is rusted from outside, at the front from inside). Usually when we suspect rust - then we open suspected panel. Usually You see condition of the car, and easy know where You can expect rust. Good idea also, to find rusted areas on a framerails or rockers is to knock on it a little with small hummer or screwdriver after sanding. If You have like paper areas - then You will hear it and finally make a hole
If a car is in werry good condition - then inspection camera is the best way. You can see if You only have surface rust or big corrosion areas or something like list, cotton (typical in some areas of USA) or other kind of dirt stopping water. The biggest problem in closed areas usually is some "alien" inside holding water, then moisture do not goes out.
In these closed places, if repair is not needed we spray special vax, it absorbe surface rust a little, and protects closed areas.

I am using tin only on areas where I think it is necessary. I know all good what You can get from new kind of fillers, and all bad. I am not only tin fan. There are some people saing "only tining" and building the wall between putty filer fans I think You have to take the best from both and have a common sense. That's why I am mixing these ways.
Just to answer to Your question - it is more expensive becouse You have to spend lot of time, aspecially if You want to do it perfect and in lot of places. But here in Poland 1 working hour still cost 1/10 Norwegian working hour. So in sum for foreign customers it is not expensive, and here in Poland is one of the last place in Europe when You can still do it
In this Mustang it do not have sense. Almost all panels are new, easy to get and tining is needed only on factory joints. At the rest of places thin layer of putty or "fat" primer will make finall surface perfect.
The old guy, which one teach me, to use tin, restore old Mercedeses. Aspecially 50-60y+ models. At these cars usually You can't get panels and have to prepare all with hands. He was working with one classic SLR fiew years ago (I think priced around 200.000EUR - the car was in shop with bodygard) and then all was tining. The car have 1 place on fiew prestige shows, and the judges can't find any filler on it. Ewerywhere metal under a pant what a suprice
I prefer to work wih cars, which are driving on roads, and just gives fun to the owner, not stress after every small scratch or driving on towing truck from show to show...