GT-40P
Is the P for Performance, Pathetic, or Pain-in-the-Ass!?
ATTENTION GT-40P USERS!!!! I want to include your stats in my "User Comments" section. My hope is to show real world gains, expectations, results, etc. from everyday Mustangers like yourself. Info I'd like to include are Name (first only is fine), email address, year and model 'Stang, basic list of mods b4 and after the head install, any 1/4 or 1/8 mile data b4 and/or after, and a "user commment". Anything from, "Car hauls ass now!!" to a short paragraph detailing your experience with the head. Send your info to me at
motorcitymustang@comcast.net
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Info
There's a lot of talk lately about the latest GT-40 casting from Ford found on the 97½ - current Explorer/Mountaineer V8s. The GT-40P. I've heard it more than once that the GT-40P is a poor choice for a performance application because it came from the truck parts bin. It's a "workhorse" type head and that's where it should stay. Well, the E7TE came from that same truck parts bin and we've all seen some decent NA applictions using those, haven't we?!
When I started on this '84 GT project the decision was made that it was going to be a budget buildup. No fancy aluminum heads. I set a goal for 12s on the motor and it was gonna be using iron Ford castings. I had pretty much resigned myself to the fact that'd I'd be using either ported E7TE's or a set of 289/302 58cc heads with Chevy valves. About that time is when I heard about the GT-40P: The direct decendant of the Cobra GT-40 head. Hmmmm.....this may be a neat alternative.
Well....I decided to do some research. I kept that "these heads aren't for performance" comment in the back of my mind to stay objective. I tempered that, however, with the reasoning that what was going to be important to me was how the head flowed and what it's cost would be. It hasn't been easy finding information but included here is everything I've come to learn about these heads. I'll be documenting the home Stage I/II cleanup and then final assembly of these heads. First....let's cover some general info to make sure there's no false information still clouding judgement......
The GT-40P replaced the standard GT-40 on the V8 Explorers and Mountaineers in early 1997. Yes, that's right, the Explorers got Cobra heads (although the Cobra's heads were milled to bring it's larger combustion chamber down to the size of the E7TE to keep compression up).
Similar runner volumes to the standard GT-40 head (around 145-155cc on the intake side, I think, compared to E7TE's 124cc). Also flows similar intake and exhaust cfm numbers to the standard GT-40 head. All accessory bolt locations and valve train geometry are the same as the standard GT-40.
1.85/1.46 valves (compared to 1.85/1.54 for the standard GT-40). The exhaust port was redesigned and is more efficient, thus the ability to use the smaller exhaust valve. This actually works well since to get equal flow numbers the velocity must be higher.....exactly what we want.
There's a little bit of room for larger valves but start going larger on the intake side and you're going to have to grind on that plug boss to clear it. And....don't forget.....a bigger valve isn't necessarily better. The whole reason these heads work so well is the decent flow they provide while still having smaller port dimensions. If you're not careful and hog out the bowls for big valves you could easily hurt flow. Just remember this when planning your mods.
Smaller 59cc (up to 61cc based on factory tolerances) combustion chambers (65.5cc in unmilled GT-40 w/ FRPP valves). Great for NA cars as this equates to a raised compression ratio when switching from E7TE castings. Should get you close to 9.5:1 (w/ stock pistons). Cut 0.030" off the bottom and you're close to 10:1 (w/ stock pistons).
Small emissions-type bump in exhaust port similar to E7TE casting but it's nowhere near as pronounced. This bump is dead center on the port roof right at the exit. Easily removed if you feel it's hurting flow. I removed mine, smoothing the transition from the guide boss to the port exit. I raised the roof of the port here to eliminate the offending bump and open the port to a size a bit closer to the Fel-Pro 1415 gasket.
No thermactor holes in the front/rear face to plug and no hole in the exhaust port to mess up flow.
Intake ports are already very close to a Felpro 1250 gasket...probably no need to gasket match. Mine were only off on one end.....the other three side being almost perfect. I just matched the last side.....no sweat.
They can use stock pedestal mount rockers. I upgraded to stud-mount adjustables. Be sure to get a shim kit to ensure you'll get the rockers to torque down correctly if you're using bolt-downs. You may not need 'em if you don't mill the heads but the kit is only $10.
Spark plug is moved down and rotated out placing the electrode closer to the center of the combustion chamber. This provides a better and more complete burn. Not only does this help performance but it also reduced emissions. Note: The GT-40P's don't use standard 5.0L plugs. You must use plugs for a 98+ Explorer/Mountaineer V8 or for a Cobra/Lightning equipped with iron GT-40 heads!! Forget about the shorty plugs (Accel p/n P526S). I've heard they're close to $10 each for this application! Plug specs are: 14mm thread, 0.708" projection, tapered seat, resistor plug. Thanks to Derek Hyde for the Accel plug specs!!. The 2000 FRPP catalog lists a Motorcraft AWSF-32C. I bought Champion Truck Plugs p/n 4013 (I used the Truck Plugs on a '97 V8 Dakota I had and was happy with them. Thought I'd try 'em again.)
Standard unequal length shorty headers won't work because of this new plug location. The primary pipes make their downward turn towards the collector too soon. Central Coast Mustang offers a P-specific shorty (made by MAC) for $199 and FRPP is offering a set for about $250. I know the FRPP pieces are stainless.....not sure about the MAC....most likely their HTS coating. I thought I read once that stock tubular exhaust manifolds might work. Why bother using those though if you're upgrading the heads?
In starting my research for the header-fit table I've been told that standard FRPP unequal length shorties will work for not only the Fox application but the SN95 shorties will work for the 94-95 cars as well. These are not a perfect fit like the MAC-for-CCM shorties and will most likely require 90° boots and/or heat booties, but they are supposed to fit without any primary dimpling.
Equal length shorties won't work at all. Well....sort of. Again....in researching the header-fit table it looks, via some good installed shots - don't have provider's info handy....credit will be given) that BBK equal length headers may fit. Still studying the pics for a more solid opinion on this.
Some longtubes and 3/4 length headers will work. Their ability to allow the primaries a longer exit straight from the exhaust port b4 turning down towards the collector provides adequate access to the plug. I know of MAC longtubes (1 5/8"), Flowtech longtubes (1 5/8"), and Heddman longtubes (1 1/2") being used.
The Heddmans alledgedly require a small clearance dimple on the #4 primary. The MAC's are snug on the #7 primary but clear fine. CCM offers these as a longtube alternative to their P-specific shorties. I had unknown-brand 3/4 length headers (1 1/2") on my '84 (look like DynoMax) that will clear no sweat. MAC longtubes for the SN95's are a good fit. CCM finallyhas a SN95 P-fit shorty. CCM is also offering a set of Tri-Y headers for GT-40P use in classic Mustangs. This is a huge plus as I've had many questions regarding header fit for P's in classic 'Stangs.
The Flowtechs were originally thought to work and they can be used. The dimple that was said to be required in the #4 primary is more like a crater. You need to crush the primary half closed to clear everything. And you'll need wires with 90° to clear a few of the other primaries as well. Check out the Progress Page for more info on this. There's some great shots of the Flowtechs installed (and "dimpled") as well as the CCM MAC built P-specific shorties.
P heads take a 7/16" headbolt just like other 289/302 heads. No funky stepped bolts or bushings needed. Big plus IMO here. Bad for 351W installs but great for us 302 based users.
"Ok...", you're saying, "but what kind of power can I expect to make?". Well....let's take a look at Fun Ford's Trophy Stock class and NMRA's Pure Street and Factory Stock classes for some examples. Now.....some may argue that these are purpuse built race cars but they're not. Most of these guys run this class because it's based on real-world street type cars. There's just a bit more attention to detail and the cams (in TS and PS) can get a bit lumpy.
I originally kept track of the current record in TS but it's changing to quickly to keep up. :^) If you look into these classes tho you'll see that the top contenders in each class all have something in common. GT-40P heads. Not all of them (especially in Pure Street since aftermarket heads are allowed) do but you'd be surprised at how many are using them....and with HUGE success. Trophy Stock and Pure Street racers are running solidly in the 11s w/ P's and Factory Stock racers are running solidly into the 12s.
These are very impressive results considering the limitations placed on the competitors in these classes. Following these classes is also an excellent way to get ideas on low-buck combinations that provide deep 12 second/hi 11 second performance.
Below are some preliminary flow numbers that I've come across. The GT-40P information was from the May 1999 issue of Super Ford. Other information was collected from various magazines and internet sources but was found all in one spot on Fletch's Carbureted 5.0 Webpage. Since this data comes from different flow benches the data should be used as a rough comparison only.
All data is for stock, unported castings
Intake Flow @ 28" H20
.100" .200" .300" .400" .500"
GT-40P 61 128 169 195 196
GT-40 54 107 157 183 192
E7TE 59 114 144 156 156
'69 351W 52 103 149 174 183
289 50 97 127 156 165
GT-40 (Y303) 64 114 167 199 213
GT-40 (X303) 53 114 170 207 226
Exhaust Flow @ 28" H20
.100" .200" .300" .400" .500"
GT-40P 52 90 123 135 139
GT-40 47 94 119 128 128
E7TE 42 78 105 115 116
'69 351W 48 77 100 113 118
289 37 71 93 104 107
GT-40 (Y303) 52 98 128 137 134
GT-40 (X303) 50 106 139 153 161
There is possibly a more important, or at least equal, value to consider than the above flow numbers; which most obviouly tend to rate by the peak flow. And I want to say thank you to Aaron Smith for bringing this up to me. I had never even thought of including that comparison here even tho I had already done the calculations. Thanks Aaron!
This value is a calculation of the "area under the curve". Once the flow numbers are plotted in a graph there is a calculation that will closely approximate this area. What this value gives is the curve that provides the most flow over the entire range of lift. For example.....let's say you are comparing two cylinder head's flow data. One head peaks 10 cfm higher than the other but the other has much better mid-lift numbers. The resultant "area under the curve" will be higher for the lower peak head. This head would most likely outperform the hi-peak head as you'd have more power across the entire range of lift. Remember....your cam has to pass mid-lift twice for every trip to peak.
The formula is really simple. For the sake of simplifying the formula let's call the value for the flow in cfm at a particular lift as the letter "F" followed by the lift (we'll call it "L") value numbering from lowest to highest. i.e. FLmin, FL2, FL3, etc. ending with FLmax. So...using that as our variable the formula reads like this:
0.05 * (FLmin + (FLmin + FL2) + (FL2 + FL3) + (FL3 + FL4) + (FL4 + FLmax))
Ok....now that we have the formula....let's look at a couple of the examples in the above flow data chart and a couple other head choices on the market.
Intake
A.U.C. Exhaust
A.U.C.
GT-40P 65.1 46.95
GT-40 59.7 45.2
E7TE 55.1 39.8
'69 351W 56.95 39.7
289 51.45 35.85
GT-40 Al. 65.1 48.26
GT-40X Al. 65.7 52.9
Twisted Wedge 76.65 57.3
"Power heads" 67.05 57.9
A couple notable observations from this table. Notice the increased peak flow of the '69 351W head compared to the E7TE. Then look at the "area under the curve" values. In stock form they're not that great of an improvement. Now look at the A.U.C. for the GT-40P compared to the standard GT-40 iron. We all know the gains to be had from the standard GT-40 head. The P head really shows it's strength when you compare them this way. Now look at the A.U.C. of the GT-40P compared to the standard GT-40 aluminum head. Still want to spend all that money on those aluminum heads? Maybe not, eh? Just to be fair.....compare the A.U.C. values of the GT-40P to the "Power Head" (for those that aren't familiar with this head.....it's a CNC ported E7TE with bigger Chevy valves). Not bad from a E7TE casting. My only complaint with the numbers for the Power Head is the intake to exhaust ratio. The average is about 88%. Way too high IMO. Those of you running a ?303 cam with single duration and lift values will probably be ok with this situation although that ratio is still a bit too high. The rest of the castings that have a more typical 70ish% I2E ratio would benefit from a split duration cam that favors the exhaust side.
One last item I'd like to cover regarding flow numbers is the intake to exhaust ratio. The GT-40P exhaust port has been improved so much that it's easy to raise the I2E ratio above the typical 70-75% that you would typically see in a cylinder head. This isn't necessarily a problem provided the ratio doesn't get too high. Get close to the 80% range and you really should be looking at a single pattern cam (ala the FRPP 303 line) as the exhaust doesn't need the help of a split pattern cam. The table below shows the I2E ratios of the heads we've looked at above.
Now none of the above or below flow data is saying that you can't make power with other stock castings. It's all a matter of matching parts. What I am trying to show here is that the P head should definitely not be ruled out simply because it's current use is a truck.
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Intake To Exhaust Ratio
.100" .200" .300" .400" .500" avg.
GT-40P 85% 70% 73% 69% 71% 74%
GT-40 87% 88% 76% 70% 67% 77%
E7TE 71% 68% 73% 74% 74% 72%
'69 351W 92% 75% 67% 65% 64% 73%
289 74% 73% 73% 67% 65% 70%
GT-40 (Y303) 81% 86% 77% 69% 63% 75%
GT-40 (X303) 94% 93% 82% 74% 71% 83%
Power Heads 98% 89% 872% 83% 81% 88%
"Ok....", you're saying, "I see the potential here but what about the everyday driver that isn't raced regularly and run at WOT a lot?". Well...this following section will cater directly to that question. I'm going to include here comments and examples from your average Mustang owners that are already enjoying the GT-40P heads on their own cars. I'll try to include a short vehicle breakdown, some comments from the owner, and an email address if you'd care to ask them questions directly about their combinations and experiences with the heads. The few that I've been able to talk to that are already using the heads are great guys. More than willing to help with questions and clear up any confusion with this install.
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Tony Tinklepaugh
t50stang@epix.net
89 Bronco
Anthony got the truck dynoed and forwarded the info on. You'll be impressed guys. He's still got MAF problems and the current fuel pumps are weak and not providing adequate pressure over 4000 rpm but he's already on top of these problems and working them out. Even with these problems how does this grab you..........349 rwhp at a max of 9# of boost!! On a driveline loss test on the dyno they found 26-27% being sucked up by the AOD and the rest of the driveline. That equates to 470+ fwhp!!! Not bad, eh? He's still searching for a good longtube header that will work in the Bronco and be compatible with the P heads. If any of you out there find something let Tony or myself know.
Tony also wanted to pass on some info for those in search of colder plugs......"The plugs I was using were Autolite 764, and I was told there was nothing colder. Lon told me to run Autolite 103 plugs. They are one range colder, have more thread but bottom out in the head at the same depth (pass this info on to others)."
Thanks for sharing your combo Anthony!
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Moses "slopok" Rosales
SlopokMoe@aol.com
Moses says, "Well I wish I would have gotten the car out to the track when it was bone stock to see what kind of numbers I could have gotten out of her....". And he adds, "I think Pullies are the best Bang-For-The-buck in performance.....But these heads follow a close second....."
Thanks for sharing your combo Moses!
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Rex Ayers
rayers@mail.win.org
'93 LX Coupe - 13.171 @ 106.02 MPH
Rex says the car ran that low 13 w/ a Stock, Extrude Honed intake, Bridgestone Potenza RE-71 street tires (2.064 60'), and at 3280 lbs with driver. The heads are ported and milled 0.040, have larger 1.90 intake Ferarra one piece SS valves, 1.60 exhaust, teflon seals, stainless keepers and locks. He figures that the TFS intake should be worth at least a couple mph in the 1/4.
Pay attention to this one folks if you're still trying to figure out your P-head combo. Here is a very well thought out, simple combination that would run well into the 12's on slicks. Thanks for sharing your combo Rex!
Wanna use GT-40P's but haven't bought them yet? Check out the deal Rex has for you:
FOR SALE: The smog police are tightening the noose in Rex's area and his P heads will not pass the inspection. His loss can be your gain. He's offering the worked GT-40P's and the custom, ceramic coated headers for only $900. He's got $1600 invested in these pieces so this is a super bargain folks. Contact Rex if you're interested.
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David Smith
dsmith@siscom.net
'85 GT
David says, "...the car feels really strong from idle all the way to about 5500 rpm. The torque seems to drop off about 4000 rpm. I've never had the car at the track but i plan to this spring. I am hoping for low 13's. (I would shit my pants if i broke into the 12's). The car is so strong right now that I have smoked the clutch in second and third. My buddy has a 67 nova w/ a 350 in it w/ cam, gear drive, manifold, and same size carb. He rode in my car the other day and said it was stonger than his.
I am very pleased w/ these heads. i am not for sure what the limitations are w/ them. I'm not for sure how much porting or larger valves would help them, but i do know that straight out of the box they are a lot of fun. The car has no problem burying the speedo; of course the speedo is only to 85 but it puts the needle against the stop. Actually the speedo needle almost moves as fast as the tach needle does. Future plans are for a aluminum driveshaft, better clutch, rebuilt of the T-5, changing to an 8.8 instead of the 7.5 rearend, and this spring changing to EFI."
Thanks for sharing your combo David!
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Julian
fffasst@yahoo.com
'92 GT
"What's it run?!", you ask. Check this out.....at 3431# w/ driver and ¾ tank of gas Julian has really done well with this mild combo:
12.78 @ 106.8mph
8.17 @ 83mph in the 1/8
1.89 60ft
This is exactly the type of performance I've been hoping to show here. Rex's performance above is impressive but it's hard for some to guage since his P's are modified. Here's a box-stock install STILL USING STOCK CAM!!
Thanks for sharing your combo Julian!
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Jeff Rockey
jrockey@cermatech-lehr.com
12.31 @ 109.5mph / best of 111mph
Jeff says, "I can also tell you that these heads really respond to a good port job.......bottom end is much stouter than the Twisted Wedge setup that I drove and the throttle response at low rpms is much better."
Thanks for sharing your combo Jeff! Keep us posted on heading for the 11s!
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Eddie Bowman
ebowman@bellsouth.net
http://ebowman.tripod.com/mustang.html
'91 Coupe - 8.143 @ 84.28 mph in the 1/8
8.143 @ 84.28 mph in the 1/8
1. 761ft
Eddie says that he reduced his 1/8 mile ET by over 4 tenths and 5.5 mph with the installation of the GT-40P's, P-headers, Cobra intake, 65mm TB, 24# injectors, & 1.7 roller rockers. The car has 85k miles and is fully equipped....AC, PS, PW, etc. This is no lightweight and it's an AOD to boot!! Timing and fuel pressure are still very conservative so we can expect to see better numbers from Eddie's combo.
Thanks for sharing your combo Eddie!
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Now that we've covered the technical aspects of the GT-40P head, the question of where to get them from arises. You have a few choices based upon where you are located in the country (if shipping costs are a concern), how much you want to spend, and how much of the work you're willing/capable of doing yourself. I'll try to keep up to date on any prices listed here but always check with the merchant on their latest pricing and availability.
Probably the ad the majority of you 'Stangers see most is Central Coast Mustang's big two page ad in MM&FF. Dennis Hilliard has probably been the biggest proponent of the GT-40P as a low-buck, aftermarket, performance alternative. His wide use of the head in package deals and affordable long blocks show it and it was CCM that got MAC to develop the P-specific shorty header. CCM sells the GT-40P's complete or bare, with or without the Thermactor drilled. They include stainless steel valves, springs good to 0.600" lift, and quality hardware. Unlike the other shops offering GT-40P heads, CCM modifies them to accept the stock Thermactor hook-up for those of you that need to stay smog-legal.
Central Coast Mustang
426 North Curry
Tehachapi, California, 93561
Planned Parts & Expenditures List
Ok....now I've got you convinced that the GT-40P's are the greatest thing since the 5.0L HO came about and ya just gotta have a pair, right? Here's a list of the kind of things you're going to need if you should decide to assemble these yourself. My intent for these heads is for them to go together for the minimum amount of money while still not using junk parts. I'll try to list everything I'm expecting to need for the swap (minus replacement fluids) for those that have never done this b4. It's the little unexpected pieces that tend to add up. Here's what used for my assembly:
GT-40P bare castings
Got mine at Kar Kraft Engineering in Livonia, MI (local to me). $110 each. See just above this section for other suppliers.
Machine work
The 3 angle valve job cost me $100 (no degrease or r&r so I saved $40) and the light resurface to clean 'em up was $60.
Valve spings, retainers, & locks
Trick Flow has a kit that is available thru Summit Racing under p/n TFS-2500100 for $12995 & includes 1.47" springs w/ dampers, chromemoly retainers, valve seals, locks, spring height guage, spring shims, and installation instructions. The springs have a seat pressure of 110# at a 1.80"' installed height and are good for cams up to 0.542" lift. The couple times I called it was out of stock. This status may have changed now.
My cam is a flat tappet 204/214 dur - .448"/.472" lift Edelbrock Performer grind. I had thought I'd use the Edelbrock p/n 5767 single spring w/ damper which is the same spring that comes on Edelbrock Performer, Performer 5.0, Performer RPM small block ford heads and on a couple other alum. heads they have. 1.46" od, 120# @ 1.83" installed height. The 2000 catalog had conflicting data on the specs for the springs and it's impossible to get thru on Edelbrock's Tech Line. So....started looking to see if I could find something else . Found it. Comp Cams p/n 972-16. 1.46" od, 125# @ 1.80" installed, 275# @ 1.30", coil bind at 1.15". These are $85 and the matching 10° locks (p/n 613-16) & retainers (p/n 740-16) are $30 and $60 respectively. The 10 degree hardware is a bonus.
Valves
I decided to use Manley stock replacement valves. These I found in the Performance Automotive Warehouse (PAW) catalog. The intake valve is PAW p/n MAN-S-1760 which is a 1.840 valve w/ a 5.075" length. $395 each. The exhaust valve is PAW p/n MAN-A-1831 which is a 1.460 valve w/ a 5.070" length. $550 each.
FYI: If you're running a roller cam and decide you'd like to use Crane's 44308-1 spring/retainer/lock kit w/ the conical springs you'll want to order an HO spec exhaust valve instead. PAW p/n MAN-A-1991. The intake and exhaust locks are different in the Crane kit and you'll need the longer tip length of the 1991 valve.
I initially thought my springs were installing dead on to the spec'd installed height without shimming. Turns out that was just the intakes and not even all of those. Looks like the exhausts will need 0.060" shims and some of the intakes will need 0.015" shims. No big deal.....just an unexpected delay.
Comp Cams Stud conversion kit
I used the Comp Cams conversion studs p/n 4504-16. These require rail-type rockers (see below) and have worked very well so far. Faint amount of valve train noise.
Rocker Arms
Well, my lovely wife squeezed some rockers into the budget! Damn I love that woman! 8^). I used Comp Cams Magnum roller tip rockers. p/n 1431-16 which are 1.6 ratio rail-type rockers for use with the above mentioned studs. I also bought a set of p/n 1450-16's for Karen's car which are the same rocker in a 1.7 ratio.
Pushrods
Wasn't going to replace these but Comp Cams wants you to with their rockers to ensure that there aren't any wear pattern problems. I used Comp Cams p/n 7831-16 Hi-Energy pushrods.
Head Gaskets
I'm using the FRPP expanded graphite head gaskets. Should hold up fine for my application and they're a bargain too!. Only $20 for the pair thru Kar Kraft!!
Head Bolts
What else? ARP. $38.
Intake Manifold Gaskets
Fel-Pro 1250. About $19.
Intake Manifold Bolts
I already had a set of Ultra Seal bolts that were never used on a previous project '84 GT. They were $19. ARP's are $24.
Valve cover Gaskets
I got Summit's steel insert gaskets for $15
Header Gaskets
Fel-Pro 1415.
Sparkplugs
I'm using #4013 Champion Truck plugs. Will likely switch to a Motorcraft or Autolite just to try 'em.
Sparkplug wires
With P-specific headers you should be able to use a standard 135° booted sbf plug wire. Some of the other shorty or lontube applications my require 90° boots at some primaries. I decided to simply order a custom fit set wires with 90° boots. My Moroso catalog lists the length of each wire for each p/n'd kit. Blue Max p/n 72521 looks to be a great match. It's for a small block chevy w/ wires routed over the valve cover. Only one wire is a tad long for what I need. Should work well.
Options/Extras
I've got about $30 invested in cartridge rolls for the home port work and about $5 for mandrels to hold 'em in the Dremel tool. If you don't have a rotary tool and plan to do this sort of thing yourself that's gonna be another $60-$80 or so. GET A FLEX-SHAFT FOR THE DREMEL!!! Another $22 on 1/8" shank carbide bits (3....one cylinder w/ radius end, one flame w/ radius end, and one oval) to do some actual material removal. I also spent $15 on a valve seat cutter and extra stone for back-cutting the valves. This ended up not working well. The stones just didn't have what it takes to cut the back angle. They'd work great for freshing the valves for a home valve job but not for serious material removal.
Some dark Ford blue engine paint should run about $6-$8 for a couple cans.
Written by Sean Meldrum
StangPro.com
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